I've heard great things about the Cook Islands, but all the guides and brochures seem to focus on the Aitutaki islands. We plan to stop off on the way to New Zealand, and would prefer not to have to catch another flight once there, but is the main island, where I believe the international flights stop, worth staying on? Celeste Atkinson, Dudley

Sunday Times travel expert, Richard Green, responds: Aitutaki is an hour's flight north of the main island and is popular for the Bora Bora style of remoteness and accommodation, but the main island of Raratonga is a fabulous microcosm of all things Polynesian and makes for a terrific South Sea stopover.

It's the biggest island in the Cook Islands group and where all international flights land, but there are just 11,000 lucky people who call the island home. It's a beautiful place, with lush, rugged mountains in the centre and powder-white sand around its edge, and a turquoise lagoon beyond.

Cook Islanders are wonderfully friendly, and this is a good place to mix with them in the surprisingly good bars and restaurants. And there are plenty of places to stay, mostly in the "barefoot luxury" mould.

It's a lovely waft of Polynesian paradise, where you'll find the culture of the Cook's at its most vibrant too. Make sure to visit the Saturday markets or a walk to the nearest coral-built church on Sunday, for roof-lifting singing. There are plenty of activities too, from 4WD safaris into the interior, guided cross-island walks, lots of water sports and great diving, plus the not-to-be-missed 'Island Night' dance shows.

Audley (01993 838 830) can arrange tailor-made trips throughout New Zealand and the South Pacific. A week on Rarotonga costs from £550pp, staying B&B at the four-star Crown Beach resort, with transfers, but not flights. Or contact All ways Pacific (01494 432747), and Transpacific Holidays (01293 593 2288).

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